G & T

Gin and Tonic

A staple drink, especially for those who do not want Martinis.  While the traditional gin and tonic has only lime juice, the house version omits the lime juice and instead uses zest of lemon and zest of lime.

Tanqueray London Dry Gin

After extensive testing of other gins, we have determined that the only gin that really shines in a gin and tonic is Tanqueray London Dry Gin. (not Tanqueray Rangpur nor Tanqueray 10).  Tanqueray LD is made with four botanicals only: Juniper, Coriander, Angelica, and Liquorice.  Compare this with Bombay Sapphire, which has ten botanicals.  Accordingly Tanqueray LD has a very firm, full flavor which holds up to the tonic water without tasting merely like ethanol (which is what happens to Bombay Sapphire).

Ingredients:  

• 1 oz Tanqueray London Dry Gin
• 5 oz Canada Dry Tonic Water (kept in 10oz glass bottles)
• lemon zest
• lime zest
• ice
• highball glass (not chilled)

The Recipe:

1. Place 4-5 hard, fresh ice cubes in the highball glass
2. Over the glass zest the lemon and lime, ensuring the mist of the zesting process lands in the glass.  This is a crucial step which allows the citrus oils to form the aroma of the drink when combined with the tonic water.  Leave the finished zests on the ice.
3. Pour the gin over the ice and citrus zest.
4. Top off with chilled tonic water (again, about 5 oz)
5. Serve immediately.

Enjoying: 

• Smell the drink first.  Try to isolate the lemon, the lime and then the juniper.
• The juniper is the principle flavor, though not the strongest.  It is reminiscent of pine trees and firs and Christmas.
• When sipping, let the drink flow over the whole tongue, do not swallow right away.  Let the carbon dioxide from the tonic water wake your taste buds and then try to taste the different botanicals.
• Juniper: pine, resin, fresh green flavor, citrus
• Coriander:  orange, lemon, spice, nutty, pine
• Angelica: a very particular flavor rather between fennel, anise, and caraway.
• Liquorice: sweet, anise, tarragon, and sassafras (somewhat like root beer flavor).  The liquorice flavor does not appear until the end of the sip.
• Quinine: bitter
• Remember, drinks are meant to be savored and thought over.  Give them at least as much consideration as you give your iphone (like turn your iphone off and enjoy a drink) and they will reward you ten-fold.

French 75 aromatique

French 75

French 75 aromatique

The usual, but given some more herbal notes by infusing the simple syrup with green aromatics.

Ingredients:

• 0.5 oz  simple syrup (infused, see below)
• 0.5 oz London Dry Gin (Tanqueray )
• 2 oz Sparkling Wine
• lemon twist

 

 Simple Infused Syrup

Combine 0.5 c water and 0.5 c white sugar in a sauce pan and bring to a boil with the lid on.  Boil for 2 min. and then remove from the heat.
Add around 2 tablespoons of greens, one of the following:

• Celery leaves
• Italian Parsley leaves
• Lemon Basil leaves (use sparingly)
• 2 Juniper berries (would supplement the Christmas tree flavor of the gin.  Tanqueray is rather weak Juniper flavor so it would pair nicely)
• 1 Star Anise pod (only around Easter or Christmas)

Let the syrup cool with the herb and then strain and chill.

  Assembly:

1. In a chilled Martini glass or Champagne flute, put the syrup and gin.
2. Top with sparkling wine and garnish with lemon twist.

Swordfish Arreganata

Swordfish with Breadcrumbs

Spada Arreganata

Swordfish steak baked then pan seared with breadcrumbs and served over sautéed vegetables.
 
Il pesce spada (swordfish) is a large oily fish with hearty steaks.  The zoological name is, as usual, much preferable -- Xiphias gladius.   "Arreganata" indicates preparation with bread crumbs.  This preparation pairs the richness of the fish with the sweetness of the vegetables and binds them with lemon.  It is important to cook the tomatoes and onions long enough and cook the spinach short enough.  The onions must develop some char and the tomatoes should be completely cooked.  The spinach should only be limp.
Cooking time 45 min. Serves two.

Ingredients:

• 2 swordfish steaks (sushimi grade frozen steaks wild caught in the Atlantic are best.  Do not eat mercurial fish caught in Singapore.)
• 2 tomatoes
• 1 white onion (do not use a sweet onion)
• 2 cups of fresh baby spinach
• 1/2 cup of bread crumbs (not the salt-ridden stale stuff, it will mask the other flavors.  Make it yourself if necessary(1))
• 2 garlic cloves
• 2 lemons
• 2 T of butter
• paprika
• pepper
• salt
• olive oil

 Steps:

1. Rub the defrosted swordfish steaks (do not defrost them in the microwave, that is bad ju ju) with paprika and salt and pepper.  Preheat oven to 450 F.
2. While oven is preheating, slice the onion into six round slices and slice each tomato into four slices.  Peel and slice the garlic.
3. Put steaks in a pyrex casserole dish (if you cook it in a tin pan, it is on your own head).  Squeeze a half of a lemon over each one and put some water in the pan.  Top each steak with a tablespoon of butter and put into the oven for 18 mins.
4. Whilst swordfish is cooking put some olive oil in a cast iron skillet and heat to shimmering.  Heat some oil in a non-stick skilled and cook the garlic until aromatic.
5. In the garlic pan wilt the spinach.  In the cast iron pan sear the onions until black on both sides.  Then sear the tomatoes hard on one side and then briefly cook other side (the tomatoes will be very limp, try to keep them together).
6. Layer the vegetables in three stripes (do not make an Italian flag, that is tacky and stupid).
7. Take swordfish and dredge each side in breadcrumbs.  Put more olive oil in the cast iron pan and sear the breaded swordfish until breadcrumbs are toasted.
8. Place steaks on vegetable bed and squeeze another half a lemon over each dish.  Garnish with lemon twist and serve.

This is a surprisingly filling dish so side dishes are probably unnecessary.  A California style Chardonnay would pair well with the richness of the fish.  Alternatively a light red wine such as Pinot Noir would supplement the vegetables nicely.  A Cabernet would be uncalled for.

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1. Toast two slices of French bread.  Cut into cubes and either beat to a powder or (for those who have food processors with metal blades, you know who you are) whirl in a food processor.

Indian Brown Ale

 

Dogfish Head, Indian Brown Ale

From the horse's mouth, well the dog's, the Indian Brown Ale is a hybrid of Scotch Ale, India Pale Ale (IPA) and American Brown Ale.  The alcohol content is boosted with brown sugar.  Indian Brown Ale is 7.2% ABV and 50 IBU.  We served it at 50 F.


Appearance: Tall and billowing head.  Very dark color which fades to dark brown on the edges.

Nose: Chocolate malt in aroma and hop smell.  No aroma hops are detectable, the smell is clean bitter flavor.

Body: Hop bite at first.  The warrior hops really come through and provide a neutral bitterness.  The bitterness fades to a strong roast malt flavor and warming alcohol.  The overall mouth-feel is creamy and warming.

Finish: Smooth, chocolaty finish with lingering molasses and hop bitterness.

Overall:  A very flavorful beer.  It is not distinctively any style.  The bitterness is reminiscent of an IPA, the malt profile a brown ale.  Dogfish Head succeeded in creating a hybrid beer, but it isn't clear that this is an improvement.  I think the hybridization, rather than combining the best of its forebears, has lost just the best.  The citrus and green hop aromas typical of an IPA are lost in the powerful malt flavor.  The stout potential of the malt is marred by the IPA like bitterness.

Gateau aux Poires

Williams's Bon Chretien: the Barlett Pear

Gateau aux Poires

Regional Specialty of Burgundy

A regional cake from Burgundy, France, which features apples, pears or apricots in a simple white cake base.

During the annual grape harvest in Burgundy, this type of cake is oft served to the pickers after dinner.  Madame Lafarge of Côte de Beaune, Volnay serves this with crème fraîche.(1)   We, however, prefer to serve it with more of a flair -- brought to the table covered in flaming sugar and brandy.  Total cooking time is 45 min.  Makes 1, 9" cake.

Ingredients:
2 pears, We found Bartlett best(2)
Pantry:
1 c flour
3/4 c sugar
3 t baking powder
3 eggs
1 T oil

Steps:
1) Prepare cake pan with a circle of parchment and greased sides. Wash pears.(3)  Preheat oven to 400 F.

2: remove rind with spoon

2) Quarter pears and remove rind with a spoon.  If they are ripe the rind will be very pliable, if they are not ripe use a knife.  Dice pears and hold.
3) Place sugar in mixing bowl and beat in the eggs until the batter is smooth.  The quantity of beating determines the texture of the cake.  Smooth batter will result in a soft cake with fine texture, the converse will result in a coarse, rustic texture.
4) Mix flour and baking powder and then add to egg batter.
5) Once flour is almost incorporated, add oil and finish.  Mixing at this stage should be done only as much as necessary.

6: incorporate pears

6) Incorporate the pears swiftly and simply, then pour into pan.
7) Bake for 30 min.  Our pastry consultant has firmly admonished that the oven not be opened even a crack for these 30 min.  Failure to comply will result in a sunken midriff.(4)
8) Take out after the 30 min.  Free the rim of the cake and invert over a rack.  Peel off the parchment and let cool.

8: cake in serving position

9) If serving with crème fraîche, wait until the time and serve with crème fraîche.  If serving with brandy, coat the top of the cake (the erstwhile bottom) with powdered sugar.  When ready to serve, ignite a half cup of brandy and pour over the cake.  Bring to the table with the lights dimmed.

Discussion on pears, brandy and flames(5)
The reasons for flaming this cake are several, the flair of presentation (and flame) and the soft, moist warmth flaming imparts.  The Barlett pear is otherwise known as the Williams pear which is from the Bon Chrétien pear brought by St. Francis to the French court in the 1400's.  This may be the variety Pliny the Elder calls Crustumian, as in from the River Crustumius.  Williams's version is thought to date from the late 18th century.  Such an illustrious background does not warrant the appellation pyrus communis, but science is inexorable.  Nevertheless, the Williams pear is also used to make the brandy Poire William.  This brandy, of course, must be the first choice for flaming this cake.  Or, if budget is tighter, a more common brandy may be used to flame the cake and Poire William served in snifters may accompany it.

When flaming, we've found the best way is to measure the spirit into a Pyrex measuring cup and warm it very slightly in the microwave (remember ethanol boils at 173 F, so if it's lukewarm you can ignite it).  Ignite the spirit while holding the cup on an angle.  Pour over the sugar-coated cake.  Serve.

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(1) Hanson, Rosi. Recipes from the French Wine Harvest.  London: Seven Dials, Cassell & Co., 2000. p22
(2) Or 2 apples, or 4-6 apricots.
(3) Use ripe pears for a sweeter, more mellow and heavier cake.  Use unripe pears for a more tart, crisp and lighter cake.
(4) We verified this by experiment.  Opening the oven is fatal to the cake's middle.
(5) Roach, F.A., Cultivated Fruits of Britain: their Origin and History. Oxford: Blackwell Ltd., 1985.

Côtes de Porc Panées Viennoise

+ Cafe Saint George +

Pork chops breaded, pan seared and finished with mushrooms stewed in beer.

This dish is reminiscent of Austrian Schnitzel but uses pork chop instead of veal.  It is served at Saint George with Pommes de Terre á la Grande-Mère.
Total cooking time is 1 hr.  Makes 2 servings.

Ingredients:
2 medium pork chops
1 shallot
1/2 lb of Portobello mushrooms
1/2 of a lemon
1 T butter
12 oz of beer
1 egg
3 slices of French bread
Pantry:
olive oil
fresh parsley
Herbs:
paprika
caraway seeds
pepper
salt

Steps:
1) Toast slices of French bread until completely dry and brown.  Cut toasts into cubes and pulverize them with a wooden spoon until the consistency of a rough breadcrumb.  Breadcrumbs made this way are far superior to the tired, salty type which can be purchased. 

3: breaded chop

Furthermore, it is a matter of minutes to make them and the result is well worth it to both taste and pocketbook.
2) Beat egg with a couple drops of olive oil.  Oil will help emusifiy the egg and coat the meat evenly.  Place beaten egg in a flat bowl and place breadcrumbs on a plate.
3) Trim fat off the chops, so that they cook without warping.  Coat each chop thoroughly in egg and then thoroughly in breadcrumbs.  Hold the breaded chops on a platter.

4: chops in pan

4) Warm 1 T butter with 2 T of olive oil until very hot, which is just when butter turns brown.  Add the chops.
5) Cook the chops until the blood beads on the surface, then turn over.  Do not cook them too hard, else you will char the breadcrumbs. Dice the shallot and slice the mushrooms while waiting.
6) Once chops are turned over, add oil if necessary and add shallots in between the chops.  Remove chops when firm to the touch.
7) Add mushrooms and cook until wilted.

8: adding beer

8) Add beer and increase temperature until a vigorous simmer is achieved.  Beer should be a low hopped varietal.  We used a Scottish 80-Shilling Ale aged for 6 months.  This had a strong malt character with very gentle hop notes (hop bitterness will diminish over time).  Chop parsley and 2 slices of lemon while waiting.  Squeeze end of lemon on the reserved chops.




9) Once sauce is almost reduced, add 2 t of paprika and 1/8 t of caraway.  Add a slight amount of pepper to taste.  Salt is unnecessary as it will mask the subtle interaction between the beer and the paprika.
10) Cook sauce until nearly dry.  Remove from heat and tilt the pan.  Spoon the mushrooms on the platter while leaving the sauce at the bottom.  Place chops on the mushrooms and pour sauce over.  Garnish with lemon slices and then with chopped parsley.

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N.B. We make this with Simple Salad,  Pommes de Terre á la Grande-Mère and serve it with Leffe Brune.   This makes for an excellent meal and total cooking time was 1 hr 30 min -- not very long for a fine meal at low expense.

Pommes de Terre à la Grande-Mère

+ Cafe Saint George +

German style potato salad with a careful balance of vinegar, shallot and pepper.

This dish is an old family recipe in whose details the Devil resides.  The ingredients are simple enough but the real art comes from blending these ingredients to the proper balance.  The proper balance is, of course, a matter of taste.  Accordingly, I leave the amounts unspecified.  It is essential to taste as you season. Total cooking time is 35 min. Makes 2 servings.

Ingredients:
4 small red potatoes
1-2 shallots
1 T sour cream
Pantry:
cider vinegar
olive oil
Herbs:
salt
pepper
parsley

Steps:
1) Dice potatoes.  Start the water boiling for the potatoes.
2) Boil potatoes for 10 mins.  They should still be fairly firm to the touch.

1: small dice with 8" knife

3) Strain potatoes in colander and rinse with cold water.
4) Dry potatoes on a towel, taking care not to break them or mar the edges.  Chop the shallot and test it for strength.  Adjust the amount of shallot on the basis of its strength.
4) When potatoes are cooled, add the shallot and sprinkle generously with cider vinegar.
5) Sprinkle with oil and salt and pepper and sour cream.  Overdoing the salt will only mask and overpower the other seasonings; salt never makes for a subtle and balanced dish.
6) Blend and season with additional vinegar and pepper. Garnish with chopped parsley.
7) Chill until serving.