Indian Brown Ale

 

Dogfish Head, Indian Brown Ale

From the horse's mouth, well the dog's, the Indian Brown Ale is a hybrid of Scotch Ale, India Pale Ale (IPA) and American Brown Ale.  The alcohol content is boosted with brown sugar.  Indian Brown Ale is 7.2% ABV and 50 IBU.  We served it at 50 F.


Appearance: Tall and billowing head.  Very dark color which fades to dark brown on the edges.

Nose: Chocolate malt in aroma and hop smell.  No aroma hops are detectable, the smell is clean bitter flavor.

Body: Hop bite at first.  The warrior hops really come through and provide a neutral bitterness.  The bitterness fades to a strong roast malt flavor and warming alcohol.  The overall mouth-feel is creamy and warming.

Finish: Smooth, chocolaty finish with lingering molasses and hop bitterness.

Overall:  A very flavorful beer.  It is not distinctively any style.  The bitterness is reminiscent of an IPA, the malt profile a brown ale.  Dogfish Head succeeded in creating a hybrid beer, but it isn't clear that this is an improvement.  I think the hybridization, rather than combining the best of its forebears, has lost just the best.  The citrus and green hop aromas typical of an IPA are lost in the powerful malt flavor.  The stout potential of the malt is marred by the IPA like bitterness.

Gateau aux Poires

Williams's Bon Chretien: the Barlett Pear

Gateau aux Poires

Regional Specialty of Burgundy

A regional cake from Burgundy, France, which features apples, pears or apricots in a simple white cake base.

During the annual grape harvest in Burgundy, this type of cake is oft served to the pickers after dinner.  Madame Lafarge of Côte de Beaune, Volnay serves this with crème fraîche.(1)   We, however, prefer to serve it with more of a flair -- brought to the table covered in flaming sugar and brandy.  Total cooking time is 45 min.  Makes 1, 9" cake.

Ingredients:
2 pears, We found Bartlett best(2)
Pantry:
1 c flour
3/4 c sugar
3 t baking powder
3 eggs
1 T oil

Steps:
1) Prepare cake pan with a circle of parchment and greased sides. Wash pears.(3)  Preheat oven to 400 F.

2: remove rind with spoon

2) Quarter pears and remove rind with a spoon.  If they are ripe the rind will be very pliable, if they are not ripe use a knife.  Dice pears and hold.
3) Place sugar in mixing bowl and beat in the eggs until the batter is smooth.  The quantity of beating determines the texture of the cake.  Smooth batter will result in a soft cake with fine texture, the converse will result in a coarse, rustic texture.
4) Mix flour and baking powder and then add to egg batter.
5) Once flour is almost incorporated, add oil and finish.  Mixing at this stage should be done only as much as necessary.

6: incorporate pears

6) Incorporate the pears swiftly and simply, then pour into pan.
7) Bake for 30 min.  Our pastry consultant has firmly admonished that the oven not be opened even a crack for these 30 min.  Failure to comply will result in a sunken midriff.(4)
8) Take out after the 30 min.  Free the rim of the cake and invert over a rack.  Peel off the parchment and let cool.

8: cake in serving position

9) If serving with crème fraîche, wait until the time and serve with crème fraîche.  If serving with brandy, coat the top of the cake (the erstwhile bottom) with powdered sugar.  When ready to serve, ignite a half cup of brandy and pour over the cake.  Bring to the table with the lights dimmed.

Discussion on pears, brandy and flames(5)
The reasons for flaming this cake are several, the flair of presentation (and flame) and the soft, moist warmth flaming imparts.  The Barlett pear is otherwise known as the Williams pear which is from the Bon Chrétien pear brought by St. Francis to the French court in the 1400's.  This may be the variety Pliny the Elder calls Crustumian, as in from the River Crustumius.  Williams's version is thought to date from the late 18th century.  Such an illustrious background does not warrant the appellation pyrus communis, but science is inexorable.  Nevertheless, the Williams pear is also used to make the brandy Poire William.  This brandy, of course, must be the first choice for flaming this cake.  Or, if budget is tighter, a more common brandy may be used to flame the cake and Poire William served in snifters may accompany it.

When flaming, we've found the best way is to measure the spirit into a Pyrex measuring cup and warm it very slightly in the microwave (remember ethanol boils at 173 F, so if it's lukewarm you can ignite it).  Ignite the spirit while holding the cup on an angle.  Pour over the sugar-coated cake.  Serve.

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(1) Hanson, Rosi. Recipes from the French Wine Harvest.  London: Seven Dials, Cassell & Co., 2000. p22
(2) Or 2 apples, or 4-6 apricots.
(3) Use ripe pears for a sweeter, more mellow and heavier cake.  Use unripe pears for a more tart, crisp and lighter cake.
(4) We verified this by experiment.  Opening the oven is fatal to the cake's middle.
(5) Roach, F.A., Cultivated Fruits of Britain: their Origin and History. Oxford: Blackwell Ltd., 1985.

Côtes de Porc Panées Viennoise

+ Cafe Saint George +

Pork chops breaded, pan seared and finished with mushrooms stewed in beer.

This dish is reminiscent of Austrian Schnitzel but uses pork chop instead of veal.  It is served at Saint George with Pommes de Terre á la Grande-Mère.
Total cooking time is 1 hr.  Makes 2 servings.

Ingredients:
2 medium pork chops
1 shallot
1/2 lb of Portobello mushrooms
1/2 of a lemon
1 T butter
12 oz of beer
1 egg
3 slices of French bread
Pantry:
olive oil
fresh parsley
Herbs:
paprika
caraway seeds
pepper
salt

Steps:
1) Toast slices of French bread until completely dry and brown.  Cut toasts into cubes and pulverize them with a wooden spoon until the consistency of a rough breadcrumb.  Breadcrumbs made this way are far superior to the tired, salty type which can be purchased. 

3: breaded chop

Furthermore, it is a matter of minutes to make them and the result is well worth it to both taste and pocketbook.
2) Beat egg with a couple drops of olive oil.  Oil will help emusifiy the egg and coat the meat evenly.  Place beaten egg in a flat bowl and place breadcrumbs on a plate.
3) Trim fat off the chops, so that they cook without warping.  Coat each chop thoroughly in egg and then thoroughly in breadcrumbs.  Hold the breaded chops on a platter.

4: chops in pan

4) Warm 1 T butter with 2 T of olive oil until very hot, which is just when butter turns brown.  Add the chops.
5) Cook the chops until the blood beads on the surface, then turn over.  Do not cook them too hard, else you will char the breadcrumbs. Dice the shallot and slice the mushrooms while waiting.
6) Once chops are turned over, add oil if necessary and add shallots in between the chops.  Remove chops when firm to the touch.
7) Add mushrooms and cook until wilted.

8: adding beer

8) Add beer and increase temperature until a vigorous simmer is achieved.  Beer should be a low hopped varietal.  We used a Scottish 80-Shilling Ale aged for 6 months.  This had a strong malt character with very gentle hop notes (hop bitterness will diminish over time).  Chop parsley and 2 slices of lemon while waiting.  Squeeze end of lemon on the reserved chops.




9) Once sauce is almost reduced, add 2 t of paprika and 1/8 t of caraway.  Add a slight amount of pepper to taste.  Salt is unnecessary as it will mask the subtle interaction between the beer and the paprika.
10) Cook sauce until nearly dry.  Remove from heat and tilt the pan.  Spoon the mushrooms on the platter while leaving the sauce at the bottom.  Place chops on the mushrooms and pour sauce over.  Garnish with lemon slices and then with chopped parsley.

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N.B. We make this with Simple Salad,  Pommes de Terre á la Grande-Mère and serve it with Leffe Brune.   This makes for an excellent meal and total cooking time was 1 hr 30 min -- not very long for a fine meal at low expense.

Pommes de Terre à la Grande-Mère

+ Cafe Saint George +

German style potato salad with a careful balance of vinegar, shallot and pepper.

This dish is an old family recipe in whose details the Devil resides.  The ingredients are simple enough but the real art comes from blending these ingredients to the proper balance.  The proper balance is, of course, a matter of taste.  Accordingly, I leave the amounts unspecified.  It is essential to taste as you season. Total cooking time is 35 min. Makes 2 servings.

Ingredients:
4 small red potatoes
1-2 shallots
1 T sour cream
Pantry:
cider vinegar
olive oil
Herbs:
salt
pepper
parsley

Steps:
1) Dice potatoes.  Start the water boiling for the potatoes.
2) Boil potatoes for 10 mins.  They should still be fairly firm to the touch.

1: small dice with 8" knife

3) Strain potatoes in colander and rinse with cold water.
4) Dry potatoes on a towel, taking care not to break them or mar the edges.  Chop the shallot and test it for strength.  Adjust the amount of shallot on the basis of its strength.
4) When potatoes are cooled, add the shallot and sprinkle generously with cider vinegar.
5) Sprinkle with oil and salt and pepper and sour cream.  Overdoing the salt will only mask and overpower the other seasonings; salt never makes for a subtle and balanced dish.
6) Blend and season with additional vinegar and pepper. Garnish with chopped parsley.
7) Chill until serving.

Simple Salad

Simple Salad

The basic green salad seasoned with oil and balsamic vinegar and garnished with croûtons and Romano cheese.

The primary feature of this dish is the use of freshly made croûtons.  While such an endeavor may seem a waste of time, making croûtons is far cheaper and infinitely better than purchasing stale excuses in the salty decline of life.  Total cooking time is 15 min. Makes 2 servings.

Ingredients:
1/2 loaf of French bread
1/2 head of Boston lettuce
1/8 lb of Romano cheese
1 clove of garlic

Pantry:
olive oil
balsamic vinegar

Herbs:
pepper

1: sliced croûtons

Steps:
1) Slice 3 slices of bread and cut into cubes for croûtons.
2) Toast them until dry and slightly browned(1).  While they are toasting, wash and cut the lettuce and leave it on a towel to dry.
3) Slice the garlic clove and place into a pan with olive oil.  Heat until garlic begins to sizzle.

4: sauté until golden brown

4) Add the croûtons to the garlic and oil and sauté until golden brown.  Add more oil if necessary.  The addition of too much oil will be very noticeable when they are eaten.
5) Toss salad with balsamic vinegar and oil.  Then garnish with grated Romano cheese and fresh croûtons.
6) Serve with fresh ground pepper to taste.  Add a squeeze of lemon if desired.


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(1) Oven at 400 F for a few minutes.  Watch carefully.

Leffe Brune

Leffe Abbey ( lef - feh ) is run by the Nobertine brothers, who follow the Rule of St. Augustine and so have contact with the secular world.  The beer is brewed under contract with the abbey.  All the Leffe beers are strong in alcohol, the range being 6.5--8.4% ABV.  The Leffe Brune comes at the bottom end of this range, 6.5 %ABV.

I agree with Michael Jackson that the Brune needs to be served warmer than typical to experience the full range of the flavor and body.(1)  I pour mine at 58-60 F into a room-temperature glass.

Appearence: The head is thick and moussy.  The color is dark brown with a red tinge towards the sides.

Nose: The aroma is a very delicate reminiscence of brown sugar and molasses.  No specific hops are detectable but a tinge of bitterness is noticeable.

Body: Very smooth palate with pronounced caramel malt, brown sugar and molasses taste.  Slight hop bitterness at the front.

Beer in the glass

Finish: Very creamy luxurious finish.  Leaves a gentle aftertaste of roast malt.  I disagree with Michael Jackson over the finish.  He states it has a dry finish(2) whereas, I would term it a sweet finish.

Overall: The beer is very easy-drinking.  The high alcohol is completely masked by the malt and brown sugar notes.  Due to its pronounced flavor I think it pairs well with seasoned foods, though not spicy foods.  Beef or pork would be the best meat pairings.  Additionally, anything with mushrooms would complement the sweet brown flavor of the beer.
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(1) Jackson, Michael Great Beers of Belgium. 6th ed. Colorado: Brewers Publications. 2011 p.317
(2) Ibid.

The Legend of King Sheaf

The legend of King Sheaf comes down to us in three primary sources: Williams of Malmesbury's Gesta Regum Anglorum; Aethelweard's Chronicle; and Beowulf.  It is a Germanic legend and is especially tied to the Danes and the Lombards.  The story goes roughly thus:

A young beautiful boy arrives at a harbor of a kingless people, sleeping alone in a gold-gilt boat.  At his head there is a sheaf of wheat and on either side is a harp and a golden cup.  Amazed at his beautiful singing, the people make him their king and he teaches them to till the soil, husband flocks and how to sing.  This brings great peace and prosperity to the land.

This legend is especially fitting to this project, because it speaks of someone bringing the culinary arts to a people.  That is precisely what we are trying to do ourselves, though not in a golden boat.  Our goal is to create finely prepared food, fully informed with modern culinary advances, but which reaches back to the past for its story.  The history of the dish can affect the ingredients, presentation or even the inspiration for the modern dish.  Any of these three aspects adds, in our opinion, to the enjoyment of the dish.

Recipes which are from literary sources will be noted at the beginning with a reference and a quotation from the source.  Recipes from historical sources will either be reproduced, if copyright permits, or our modernized version will be given along with the reference.  Recipes which are neither literary or historical will be marked under the heading,  "Cafe Saint George."  Such recipes will usually be restaurant-style, fine foods intended for special occasions or romantic dinners.  The serving size of most recipes will be 2 or 4.

For anyone further interested in the legend of King Sheaf, you can of course pursue the sources I mentioned earlier.  If, however, you do not read Latin or Anglo-Saxon you may be longer than expected.  Tolkien did a re-telling of the legend in plain English which you can find in the History of Middle Earth(1).
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1) Tolkien, Christopher, ed. History of Middle Earth: The Lost Road and Other Writings, by J.R.R. Tolkien. London: Harper Collins, 2000. p85